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Lying off the west coast of
the Isle of Mull the tiny Isle of Iona, barely three miles long by one
mile wide, has had an influence out of all proportion to its size to the
establishment of Christianity in Scotland, England and throughout
mainland Europe.
Iona's place in history was
secured when in 563 AD St. Columba arrived on its white sandy beaches
with 12 followers, built his first Celtic church and established a
monastic community.
Once settled, the Irish
monk set about converting most of pagan Scotland and northern England to
the Christian faith. Iona's fame as a missionary centre and outstanding
place of learning eventually spread throughout Europe turning it into a
place pilgrimage for several centuries to come. Iona became a sacred
isle where kings of Scotland (48), Ireland (4) and Norway (8) were
buried.
S
o who was St. Columba or Colum Cille in Gaelic…born of royal
blood in 521 AD in Ireland or Scotia as it was then called, he was the
grandson of the Irish King Niall. He left Ireland for Scotland not as
missionary but as an act of self-imposed penance for a bloody mess he
had caused at home. He had upset the king of Ireland by refusing to hand
over a copy of the Gospels he had illegally copied, this led to a
pitched battle in which Columba's warrior family prevailed. Full of
remorse for his actions and the deaths he had ultimately caused he fled,
finally setting on Iona as the first place he found from where he
couldn't see his native Ireland. One of the features on the island is
even called "The Hill with its back to Ireland".
St. Columba however, was
not the shy retiring type and set about building Iona's original abbey
from clay and wood. In this endeavour he displayed some strange
idiosyncrasies, including banishing women and cows from the island,
claiming that "where there is a cow there is a woman, and where there is
a woman there is mischief". The abbey builders had to leave their wives,
daughters, etc., on the nearby Eilean nam Ban (Woman's Island). Stranger
still, he also banished frogs and snakes from Iona, how he accomplished
this feat is not as well documented.
Strangest claim of all
however is that Columba was prevented from completing the building of
the original chapel until a living person had been buried in the
foundations. His friend Oran volunteered for the job and was duly
buried. It is said that Columba later requested for the Oran's face to
be uncovered so he could bid a final farewell to his friend. Oran's face
was uncovered and he was found to be still alive but uttering such
blasphemous descriptions of Heaven and Hell that Columbus ordered that
he be covered up immediately!
Over the centuries the
monks of Iona produced countless elaborate carvings, manuscripts and
Celtic crosses. Perhaps their greatest work was the exquisite Book of
Kells, which dates from 800 AD, currently on display in Trinity
College, Dublin. Shortly after this in 806 came the first of the Viking
raids when many of the monks were slaughtered and their work destroyed.
The Celtic Church
lacking central control and organisation diminished in size and stature
over the years to be replaced by the much larger and stronger Roman
Church. Even Iona was not exempt from these changes and in 1203 a
nunnery for the Order of the Black Nuns was established and the
present-day Benedictine Abbey was built. The Abbey was a victim of the
Reformation and lay in ruins until 1899 when its restoration started.
Just outside the
chapel is the Reilig Odhrain the sacred burial ground of the Scottish
kings, said to include Macbeth's victim Duncan. The most recent grave is
that of John Smith, leader of the British Labour Party from 1992, until
his untimely death in 1994.
No part of St.
Columba's original buildings have survived, however on the left hand
side of the Abbey entrance can be seen a small roofed chamber which is
claimed to mark the site of the saint's tomb on the left hand side of
the Abbey entrance can be seen a small roofed chamber which is claimed
to mark the site of the saint's tomb
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