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D uring the
sixteenth to eighteenth centuries there were two main styles of brooches in
Scotland; one was the ring brooch, often with incised decoration, and used to
fasten plaids by both men and women. This design was called a Pennanular.
The other brooch was a heart shaped one, often given at weddings and engagements
as a token of love.
F rom the
eighteenth century onwards, small plain heart shaped brooches were worn to
protect against evil spirits, the evil eye or the attention of the sithean
(fairy spirits). These are the famous “Luckenbooth Brooches”.
The name for the
Luckenbooth came from there being sold in locked booths. These were small shops,
which were in fact very tiny and could be securely locked at night and were a
feature of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile. These brooches were heart shaped
surmounted by a crown and usually made of silver.
The first Luckenbooth brooches
date from the late seventh century. This traditional gift was given by a man to
his sweetheart on their betrothal. It was considered a lucky charm, protecting
the wearer against the evil eye. Among other powers the Luckenbooth was supposed
to have, was in easing the pain at childbirth and ensuring a good flow of breast
milk when it was pinned to a woman’s petticoats near her left thigh. If pinned
to the baby’s shawl, it would protect the child from being stolen by fairies.
During the XVIII and XIX
centuries the Luckenbooth became larger and more elaborate with inscriptions on
the back such as biblical references or the initials of the couple and the date
of their betrothal.
From 1850 onwards, the
intertwined hearts were made to resemble the letter M. These came to be called
Mary’s Brooches or even Queen Mary’s Brooches for Mary Queen of Scots’ whose
husband, Lord Darnley, had given her one.
Most Luckenbooth brooches today
are in the form of two hearts topped by a crown and are made of silver, although
some versions of this traditional Scottish brooch can be found in iron and
brass. Victorian ones were generally set with garnets. Garnets were thought to
have a lucky influence on affairs of the heart and symbolized a lover’s
constancy as well as being an emblem of deep friendship. The Victorian versions
of the Luckenbooth brooch were decorated with gems of different colours.
Many
antique Luckenbooths are treasured family heirlooms. Now is the ideal
time to start your family tradition.!
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