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L ying
off the west coast of the Isle of Mull the tiny Isle of Iona, barely
three miles long by one mile wide, has had an influence out of all
proportion to its size to the establishment of Christianity in Scotland,
England and throughout mainland Europe.
Iona's place in history was secured
when in 563 AD St. Columba arrived on its white sandy beaches with 12
followers, built his first Celtic church and established a monastic
community.
Once settled, the Irish monk set
about converting most of pagan Scotland and northern England to the
Christian faith. Iona's fame as a missionary centre and outstanding
place of learning eventually spread throughout Europe turning it into a
place pilgrimage for several centuries to come. Iona became a sacred
isle where kings of Scotland (48), Ireland (4) and Norway (8) were
buried.
 So
who was St. Columba or Colum Cille in Gaelic…born of royal blood
in 521 AD in Ireland or Scotia as it was then called, he was the
grandson of the Irish King Niall. He left Ireland for Scotland not as
missionary but as an act of self-imposed penance for a bloody mess he
had caused at home. He had upset the king of Ireland by refusing to hand
over a copy of the Gospels he had illegally copied, this led to a
pitched battle in which Columba's warrior family prevailed. Full of
remorse for his actions and the deaths he had ultimately caused he fled,
finally setting on Iona as the first place he found from where he
couldn't see his native Ireland. One of the features on the island is
even called "The Hill with its back to Ireland".
St. Columba however, was not the
shy retiring type and set about building Iona's original abbey from clay
and wood. In this endeavour he displayed some strange idiosyncrasies,
including banishing women and cows from the island, claiming that "where
there is a cow there is a woman, and where there is a woman there is
mischief". The abbey builders had to leave their wives, daughters, etc.,
on the nearby Eilean nam Ban (Woman's Island). Stranger still, he also
banished frogs and snakes from Iona, how he accomplished this feat is
not as well documented.
Strangest claim of all however is
that Columba was prevented from completing the building of the original
chapel until a living person had been buried in the foundations. His
friend Oran volunteered for the job and was duly buried. It is said that
Columba later requested for the Oran's face to be uncovered so he could
bid a final farewell to his friend. Oran's face was uncovered and he was
found to be still alive but uttering such blasphemous descriptions of
Heaven and Hell that Columbus ordered that he be covered up immediately!
Over the centuries the monks of
Iona produced countless elaborate carvings, manuscripts and Celtic
crosses. Perhaps their greatest work was the exquisite Book of Kells,
which dates from 800 AD, currently on display in Trinity College,
Dublin. Shortly after this in 806 came the first of the Viking raids
when many of the monks were slaughtered and their work destroyed.
The
Celtic Church lacking central control and organisation diminished in
size and stature over the years to be replaced by the much larger and
stronger Roman Church. Even Iona was not exempt from these changes and
in 1203 a nunnery for the Order of the Black Nuns was established and
the present-day Benedictine Abbey was built. The Abbey was a victim of
the Reformation and lay in ruins until 1899 when its restoration
started.
Just outside the chapel is the
Reilig Odhrain the sacred burial ground of the Scottish kings, said
to include Macbeth's victim Duncan. The most recent grave is that of
John Smith, leader of the British Labour Party from 1992, until his
untimely death in 1994.
No part of St. Columba's original
buildings have survived, however on the left hand side of the Abbey
entrance can be seen a small roofed chamber which is claimed to mark the
site of the saint's tomb on the left hand side of the Abbey
entrance can be seen a small roofed chamber which is claimed to mark the
site of the saint's tomb |
"DRAGON GALLEY BROOCH 
